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Researching the Fortress of Louisbourg National Historic Site of Canada
  Recherche sur la Forteresse-de-Louisbourg Lieu historique national du Canada

POST OCCUPATIONAL HISTORY OF THE OLD FRENCH TOWN OF LOUISBOURG, 1760-1930

By Wayne Foster 

Unpublished Report H D 02

Fortress of Louisbourg

December, 1965

(Note: The illustrations, are available from the Fortress of Louisbourg / 
A noter : les illustrations pourrait être consulter à la
Forteresse-de-Louisbourg.)
 

Table of Contents

CHAPTER VI: 1830-1850

The period, 1830-1853 is one of which little is known of Louisbourg, except from writers who visited the Old Fortress to satisfy their sense of curiosity. It is well, however, to keep the 1830 prohibition on grants of land lots in Louisbourg (Old Town) in mind when examining this period.

We know that beginning in 1828 and continuing into the thirties Scottish settlers began to come to the districts near Louisbourg. "The people were mostly fishermen from the Western Isles, and in summer the heads of families came to Louisbourg to engage in the fishing industry. This gave a supply of food for their families and, what is perhaps more important, a chance to earn a little money. In later years, after the opening of the railway, many of these people of Scottish descent moved into the town [probably a reference to the modern day town]. [171] There is no indication that any of this group settled in the Old Town. There probably was no land available, even if the land had been of a nature to kindle the desire of new settlers. As noted before, the Kennedys, Kehoes, Powers, Cryers, and Slatteries seem to have had fairly exclusive possession of this land.


LAND TRANSACTIONS

A perusal of the legal documents of the time shows judgments being recorded against Pierce Kennedy in 1831, [172] and 1845 [173] for sums of money. In 1836 he placed a mortgage on his property for a sum of one hundred dollars that he received from Charles McAlpine, also of Louisbourg. He mortgaged:

"a lot of land commencing at [the] West Gate thence north eighty degrees west one hundred chains thence north ten degrees east one hundred and six chains more or less to the shore thence easterly along the shore to the place of commencement, containing ninety acres more or less. Secondly, a lot of land commencing at the Brew House thence running north seventy five degrees west one hundred and six chains thence south fifteen degrees west ten chains thence south seventy five degrees east one hundred and five chains to the shore thence following the shore to the place of beginning containing one hundred and Seventy nine acres more or less, and lastly a lot of land containing about Forty acres and for which a warrant of Survey was obtained from the Surveyor General's Office at Sydney by the said Pierce Kennedy on or about the 12th day of September ... one thousand eight hundred and sixteen ..." [174]

There is no evidence to suggest that Kennedy did not meet the payment. At least, the land remained in his possession until his death around 1850. Some years before, as previously mentioned, a division of his father's property among himself, his sister Ellen (wife of Richard Power), and his brother Dennis, must have occurred. A deed of 20 April 1840, [175] records the conveyance by Richard Power and his wife Ellen [Kennedy] to William Cryer of all that parcel of land:

situate at the south western side of Louisbourg harbor and commencing to the north western corner boundary of a lot of land owned and occupied by Richard Power at the shore; thence running by the magnet in 1827 south forty two degrees and thirty minutes each thirty seven feet to the Road leading to the said Richard Power's House thence along said Road fourteen feet thence at right angles with said Road to the shore aforesaid thence along said shore North westerly to the place of commencement ...

This document would seem to indicate that Richard Power made his home at Louisbourg,

Matthew Kehoe, who had obtained land by licence near the West Gate of the Old Town in 1795, and who had married Catherine Slattery [heir to northern half of the Kavanagh lot], by whom he had three children, George, John, and Mary Ann, deeded his lot of 1795 to the daughter, Mary Ann, on 12 January 1843. The description of the lot in the deed was given as "all that certain piece or parcel of land situated and being in Louisbourg ..., beginning at a stake near the West Gate of the Town thence S.100 West one hundred and eight chains, thence N.80' West 9 chains, thence N.10' East 100 chains to the shore side, thence Easterly along shore to the place of beginning ..." [176]

"Mary Ann Kehoe, single woman", by a deed dated [177] 25 September 1846 conveyed the above lot to John Kennedy. The description of the lot was exactly that given in 1795 when Matthew Kehoe first received legal right to occupy it.


STATE OF THE FORTRESS SITE

Writers of the era give us some indication of the Old Town. It is to be noted that the majority of them contrasted the desolation of the site as it was then with its mighty splendour of the French occupation. Some tend to exaggerate the desolation, but keeping all the available information in mind, one can understand how the relatively non-existant population startled the writers into expressing somewhat extreme statements concerning habitation. The impression left, however, seems to be authentic enough. The Old Town was, by this era, relegated to the low position of grazing around for sheep and its shores to maintaining scanty fishing flakes and huts.

John McGregor, who visited the area in the very early 1830's, said: "The Remains of all the batteries and the foundations of many of the public buildings, the stockades, and, in calm weather, the sunken ships of war, are still to be seen". After speaking of the "desolation" of the site and the "scattered sheep", he continued, "A few huts, the habitations of poor unambitious fishermen, form only a melancholy contrast to the superb edifices, scientific fortifications, naval grandeur, military pomp, and commercial activity of which Louisbourg once the splendid theatre." [178]

A somewhat extreme statement is made about the site in 1832 by Joseph Bouchette [Surveyor General of Lower Canada, Lieut. Colonel C.M. Vice-President of the Literary and Historical Society of Québec, and corresponding member of the society of Arts, London. He described the "once famed harbor of Louisbourg" as "utterly deserted", and remarked, "Although capacious and secure, no settlement has been made upon it since the destruction of the town; and what was once, if not the largest, certainly the most splendid town of La Nouvelle France, is now without an inhabitant." [179] A petition of the inhabitants of Louisbourg in 1835 [180] is interesting because of the names thereto affixed. The inhabitants were expressing their recommendations of a "Mr. John Phelan[.] to the commissioner of Schools [for] the North Eastern District of Cape Breton [.] as a fit person to be Licenced a Public teacher." A note on the outside of the documents indicates that Mr. Phelan was "to be licenced from 1 June 1835"; however, the note tells us that as of that date no school had been established. The inhabitants of Louisbourg signing the document were McAlpine, William Kennedy, Thomas Townsend, James Townsend, Mary Tutty, John Roach, James Lorway, Patrick Fitzgerald, French Doygle[?], George Sharp, Thomas Kehoe, Dennis Kennedy, William Cryer, David Burke, Pierce Kenady, Richard Power, John Young, and Jonathan Tutty. The three Kennedies, William Cryer, and Richard Power seem to be the only names in the list that we know possessed land in the Old Town.

An attempt to revive Louisbourg as a fishing establishment is evidenced in the April 11th 1843 issue of The Cape Breton Spirit of the Times, in which an advertisement announces a "public meeting to be held the following Saturday, for the purpose of forming a fishing establishment at Louisbourg". The Times speaks highly of the event, saying, "The time has passed when the chivalry of France assembled at Louisbourg to raise bastion and rampart over the waters, but the time may come when a happy and thriving population may dwell on the site of the vanished city, and the share in the furrow, and the keel on the wave, promise permanency doomed to sword and shell." [181]

By 1843 the chief land settlement seemed to be on the west and north end harbor land. Mention is made of this new main area of settlement by Bishop John Inglis in an account of his visitation at Louisbourg in a letter dated January 1844:

Thursday July 27, [1843], Louisbourg ... 70 persons were collected for our service in the house of Mrs. Loraway, who as several other aged persons did reminded me of my visit to them forty years ago. Mr. Stevenson preached and I confirmed 39 of the congregation, whom I addressed both before and after their Confirmation ..., I gladly encouraged them in the good work they had already commenced, the erection of a Church, for which a site has been well selected and given by Mr. McAlpin. The present chief settlement is more than two miles from the site of the ancient fortified Town, whose ruins are still interesting. Several of the present inhabitants are children of Soldiers who assisted in the siege and capture by Lord Amherst and General Wolfe ... [182]

Letters by the Rev. W.G. Porter, who was the Church of England missionary for the Propagation of the Gospel in the Louisbourg area between 1831-47, speak of the poverty of the Louisbourg inhabitants. He attributed it to the poor price for fish and in one particular year, the failure of the potato crop. Adding to their misery was the high price of flour in the region.[183] This account gives good reasons for the unpopularity of Louisbourg. When the soil is poor, crops uncertain, prices high, and income low, the region in question is not likely to be particularly attractive to most settlers. This would seem to have been the state of affairs at Louisbourg, especially in the rocky district of the Old Town.

A full and informative depiction of Fort Louisbourg as given by Abraham Gesner in his book of 1849 reads thus:

The high walls that bustled with cannon, the ditch, the glacis, and portcullis, have almost disappeared -- the bomb-proofs and magazine have become sheepfolds, and the stronghold of the French in America is a heap of rubbish, overgrown the lichens.

I had an opportunity of visiting the ruins of Louisbourg, the ancient capital of Canada, in November last ...

The arched places of arms and bomb proofs of the citadel are still entire. Three of them are sheepfolds -- another is occupied by a fisherman for a cabbage cellar, and time has encrusted the ceilings with small stalactites. The foundations of the barracks, chapels, the nunnery, hospital, and other public buildings are still perfect; and the cells of the prison are almost unbroken, as is also the kiln of a large brewery. The present inhabitants are supplied with water from the Governor's Well, and the walls of some of the buildings and chimneys are twelve feet high.

Louisbourg was built on a peat bog. The peat now appears in the ditches, cut by the present inhabitants. The ancient city is now occupied by half a dozen fishermen and their families, who raise a few potatoes and cabbages in the old gardens and between the walls of the fallen buildings. The houses and sides of the fortifications were chiefly built of a porphynitic trap - a prevailing rock here ... [184]

Another writer, Montgomery R. Martin in 1850 described Louisbourg as "so reduced to ruins that, at first sight, the outlines of the chief buildings are scarcely discernable ..." [185] His reference to the flocks of sheep feeding on the old Fortress site and the "desolation" clinging to the area are significant as they reveal the very nature of the type of habitation existing - a pastoral one.

The year 1850 signalled the end of this era. The outstanding event of that year, as far as it related to Louisbourg and Cape Breton as a whole, was the Act passed by the government of the province confirming titles to land in Cape Breton. The Act passed on the 28th day of March A.D., 1850 read:

Be it enacted by the Lieutenant-Governor, Council and Assembly as follows:

1. All persons who may have gone into possession of any lands and Tenements in the Island of Cape Breton under a Crown Lease, or under a Title derived from a Lessee of the Crown holding under such Crown Lease, shall respectively have hold, and enjoy all such Lands and Tenements in Fee Simple, or in case of such derivative title, then shall they hold such a title in any such Lands or Tenements as may have been conveyed or passed under and by virtue thereof: Provided always that in any such derivative title the original Lessee shall have fully assigned, conveyed, or demised his whole interest or title in such Lands; and provided also that where any Grants under the Great Seal of the Province shall have passed, of lands previously contained in a Crown Lease to a different party than the Lessee, or any one claiming under him, the Grantee, or any one claiming under him, being in actual possession, shall be held to have the superior title, if such Grants shall have passed Ten Years, or upwards, before the passing of this Act; And provided also, that nothing herein contained shall extend to the General Mining Association, or other Lessees of any Mines or Mineral in the Island of Cape Breton. [186]

This Act made lands held previously by Crown Leases or other such forms of tenure the legal possessions of their occupants. A sense of security was at long last give to landholders in Cape Breton.