ERIC KRAUSE
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business since 1996
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_____________________________________________________________________________________ ERIC KRAUSE GENEALOGY _____________________________________________________________________________________
LYNDA'S CORNER
Lynda Jean Richards, b. Rimmer, m. Krause
REPORTS "NORTH OF '66 AND MORE" 2011 TOUR (Saturday, February
5-Friday, May 27) Click On These Images
of Lynda To Enlarge Them
As mentioned in
last year's letter, Eric & I went "North of '66" & More on a 4-month tour of the
USA hoping to explore states not visited on our 2007 "Route 66" tour. I ended
saying "It will be a "gre-e-eat" trip w/ many adventures." However, the
trip proved to be the busiest adventure we have had so far in the "Big Guy". We
ended up having almost as many misadventures as adventures (or so
it seemed at the time) & lived to tell about them. We left Cape Breton early on
Feb. 5, & arrived back in Cape Breton on Fri., May 27, at 4:52 P.M. after 111
nights/112 days on the road & travelling c. 25,000 km (15,500 mi). The states
we passed thru on this trip in order: Maine, New Hampshire, Massachusetts,
Connecticut, New York, New Jersey, Delaware, Maryland, Virginia, North Carolina,
South Carolina, Georgia, Florida, Alabama, Mississippi, Louisiana, Texas, New
Mexico, Arizona, Nevada, California, Oregon, Washington, Idaho, Montana, South
Dakota, Nebraska, Iowa, North Dakota, Minnesota, Wisconsin, Illinois, Indiana, &
Michigan. We have now visited 45 states, only missing Arkansas, Colorado, Utah,
Alaska, & Hawaii! We left Cape Breton early on February 5, 2011
and headed south quickly to avoid possible snowstorms, but alas no such luck as
we awoke to snow the next morning and had to wait to be plowed out of our motel
in Woodstock, N.B., thus having to drive later that evening hoping to get past
the snow. As it got dark, the "Check Engine Light" came on so Eric readjusted
the "GPS" to another plug and we continued on. However just as we got off the
Massachusetts Turnpike heading to Danbury, Connecticut, we lost all power and
coasted to the toll booths just before I-84S and got to the side of the road.
Using a flashlight, we called C.A.A. for a tow on the back of a flatbed to
nearby Sturbridge, Massachusetts where we spent the next two nights waiting for
a new alternator to be installed. (Perhaps then, we should have hightailed it
home and saved a whole lot of money and later mishaps), but we continued
forward. Oh well!! (It turned out the Chrysler Dealer in Sturbridge was out of
business but AAA found us one nearby.) As we got further south, we were now able to
stay in campgrounds. First though, we had to get a part for our broken sewer
valve which occurred during the towing episode. We lucked out in Jacksonville,
Florida, and then after getting fixed up decided to start heading west on
Highway 10 as we've visited Florida several times. We passed several areas seen
on our "Route 66" tour in northern Florida, Mississippi, and Alabama and then
headed north to stay in Shreveport, Louisiana for four nights to revamp.
Finally, we are in "new" territory so let the adventures begin. HA, HA. Next we continued into Northern "Don't Mess
with Texas" - Dallas, Arlington, Fort Worth and Abilene. We toured downtown
Dallas - "Wonder which office tower J.R. Ewing worked in?"; took pictures of the
"Mustangs of Los Colinas" - a bronze sculpture depicting nine horses galloping
though a granite stream (largest equestrian sculpture in the world - 1984). We
then headed to nearby Fort Worth and the "Stockyards National Historic District"
with original brick streets; Billy Bob's Bar B Q Pit restaurant; saloons and
dance halls, "Cowgirl and Cowboy clothing and handmade boots and "Texas Fried
Pickles." Heading to Abilene to stay overnight, we passed many abandoned
buildings and oil "mules" not pumping reminiscent of bygone oil booms
and lots of pecan trees. Moving into New Mexico, "The land of Enchantment," we
passed many huge ranches and the "World's Largest Wind-farm" cause, as
you know, "everything is bigger in Texas"; lots of cotton fields, new oil
drilling and refineries; lots of peanut farms. We stayed in Carlsbad, New Mexico, and toured
nearby Roswell as all "Aliens Welcome" - very touristy, so we decided to head to
"Carlsbad Caverns" located in a mountainous limestone area covered with
lots of cactus and tall yuccas in the Chihuahuan Desert with few pull-off areas.
After a great tour with amazing rock formations such as "Hall of Giants, Top of
the Cross, Caveman Junction, Painted Grotto", etc., it appeared that the "Big
Guy" was in trouble and the gears seemed stuck, but Eric managed to get it
shifted finally and we slowly worked our way back and forth through the
mountains to our campsite. Next day saw a big change in our plans as we headed
south to find a Five-Star Chrysler in Tucson, Arizona, in case we needed
transmission parts or whatever as nothing but desert and mountainous flatlands
up next - very deserted! Stayed in an "overflow" campsite as everything
booked and to bed early as up next morning at 5:30 A.M. to get to the Service
Department - scanned the transmission codes but couldn't find the problem so did
an oil change and off we went at 10 A.M. We decided to head to the "Mesa/Apache
Junction KOA" outside of Phoenix (stayed there in March 2007) and stayed awhile
in the warmth (one week @ 15% off) plus predicted to be in the mid-70s during
week of February 27. Eric put up my suet feeder as lots of birds , especially a
huge "covey" of 24 desert quail (really cute). However, as has been a continued
problem this whole trip - no payphone!! We relaxed most days - I sorted my many
brochures and did my notes and toured area one day and called home after finding
a payphone; put on my Cape Breton tartan pants and Cape Breton sweater to meet a
couple from Cape Breton and postcards, and of courses- bird watched (especially
Emma). We are now "California bound" passing miles and
miles of settlement in the "Valley" area full of fields and yellow wildflowers
with huge aqueducts and canals coming through the desert from surrounding
mountains. After crossing the Colorado River in California, we decided to head
north to "Needles Koa", California (stayed there in March 2007). As we started
climbing, the desert vegetation kept changing from prickly pear cactus to
ocotillo, to red barrel cactus (in the Mojave Desert now) and Teddy Bear Cholla.
Surprise of all surprises - we're heading to Las Vegas Nevada, "The Silver
State", (with our 50 cents) only because it is now on our new route and there is
a KOA at "Circus Circus" right on the strip (no grass and just cement). We
walked the various parts of the strip for the next three days and I can
guarantee we didn't miss many of the sights - only the casinos and costly shows.
Oh Well!! At least, we still have our 50 cents. However in "Circus Circus,
Riviera; Encore and the Wynn Resorts; Trump International Hotels; the Egyptian
themed Luxor; Tropicana; MGM Grand; New York, New York; Eiffel Tower and Paris
Les Vegas; Planet Hollywood; Bellagio's with synchronized musical fountain
shows; Margaretville in the Flamingo Hotel; Caesar's palace and its Forum shops
and restaurants; the Mirage with its erupting volcano; Treasure island; the
Venetian with gondola rides; etc., etc. We took the "Deuce" bus one day down to
Mandalay Bay but it was closed for a private party so we worked our way back
seeing other sights instead of waiting for other buses. Later we caught it near
our end to see the "original" Strip - Fremont Avenue" and the Sahara (now closed
in 2011). We backtracked to see the Hoover Dam on Day
Four - very spectacular but traffic jams; Seven dollars for parking so we
went to Parking Area Eleven and walked back; tours were thirty dollars each and
even an admission fee at the Visitor Centre with exhibits. Thus we took steep
steps down to various observation areas, got some postcards and hit the road.
After bypassing "the Strip - Las Vegas Boulevard", we headed north to Amargosa
Valley (Nevada) to camp before going through "Death Valley Park and California. Up early on March 8, to get an early start so
we can make it through Death Valley and stay in "Lone Pine" on the other side.
Turned out we had to turn back one-half hour later for gas as the gas station
before the park was closed and there's no station in the park and no more
gambling/slots. As we finally enter the park, we see "a sandplow" - looked like
our "snowplow". We've been climbing through volcanic rock all along and are at
3000 feet before heading down to the lowest point of Death Valley at 282 feet
below sea level. We pass through an area of salt pans; the "Badlands" with
interesting rock formations and colours; and just as we start on "Artists
Drive", on very curvy one-way narrow road with rock walls on each side, the "Big
Guy" clicks out of gear forcing Eric to try and pull over a bit to rock it back
into gear before cars come up behind us. Finally it did and since we couldn't go
back, we continued onward and upward. After that, we could not really enjoy our
unique surroundings and decided not to go further on to "Badwater" - the
lowest level in the U.S.A., so took first road back to the Visitor Centre at
Furnace Creek (only - 190 feet but will have to do). "Big Guy" seems fine
now - guess it doesn't like "hills"! However, we know that we still have to
climb back out of Death Valley! At 4956 feet there was a brake check area
before we started heading slowly to 2000 feet with many sharp curves and "soft
shoulder" signs and look-offs" - Don't think so! Then we climbed slowly back up
to 5000 feet and were on a plateau with Joshua trees and Mohave Year. We would
see a snow-covered mountain range in the distance. Oh No!! At the cut for "Lone
Pine" with nearby Mt. Whitney at 14, 494 feet (highest peak in California), we
decided to head south to Bakersfield (a larger city) in case we have a major
problem. We passed through a salt flat/dry Bake bed; Red Rock Canyon (Area looks
like Ayres Rock in Australia); more mountains with larger "wind-mill farms" and
long tunnels for trains, and on the other side of the range near Bakersfield
into green grass hills and trees and blooming cherry orchards. What a sudden
change! Early next morning (March 9), we headed to
Chrysler's but booked solid for days. He sent us to a small local transmission
garage who did a scan and said it definitely wasn't a transmission problem
because the oil was "good and red", but it could be electrical or in the
computer system so we headed to Carquest to get a fuse for Eric to change and
see if it might solve the immediate problem. We decided to head to Santa
Clarita, California which had a Five-Star Chrysler dealer to solve the mystery.
As we started climbing the problem started again and we couldn't gain power, so
we stayed in the truck lane with flashers on but okay on the flat areas. We
stayed in nearby Castaic Lake and headed to Santa Clarita. At 6 A.M. next
morning to the Chrysler dealer. Emma must be getting used to these dealerships
as she now looks around from her box instead of hiding for hours. After a test
drive at 9 A.M. with Eric (the problem never occurred) the technician felt from
Eric's description that it could be a pump somewhere but would do more tests. By
10 A.M. he says it is the transmission - $5,000.00 - and will have to order it
in and since it's the weekend, come back Tuesday at 7 A.M. - Some holiday!!
Found a better campground in Castaic Lake for 5 nights and set up near the "dog
park" so lots to sit and watch as now 86°
F - no payphone of course. We only ventured out to nearby Valencia for
groceries and to call Mom in case the "Big Guy" acted up otherwise Eric did "the
taxes", I did notes and postcards and went for walks around the park and we
relaxed as "Death Valley" almost killed us! Early Tuesday, March 15, we returned to
Chrysler's and sat inside with Emma and paper-work waiting for the "Big Guy" and
his new transmission. After loading up, we headed to Santa Paula passing orange
groves (some still covered with gauze netting) to a KOA there. Hence we were
now going to be near Santa Barbara (originally not even close), I called
Anna (a friend that both Bob and I met on our New Zealand tour in 2000 and then
stayed with following our Australian tour in 2005). We arranged to see her on
St. Patrick's Day for "green' beer so she could finally meet Eric. Alas, as we
headed to the KOA, the problem, for a fleeting moment, apparently
happened again, so we immediately headed back to Chrysler's in Santa Clarita and
got there just at 5 P.M. Of course, the technician was gone so back we went to
our old campsite which was still open and stayed overnight. Next morning, at the
dealer, I overhead the "techie" tell the service manager - "I don't know what to
tell him" before he went on another test drive with Eric. As a last ditch
attempt, he adjusted the throttle and pressure plus the kick down cable so that
it gears down sooner. Thus as we've said before "Time will tell"!! and off we
went. We headed back to the KOA that we didn't reach yesterday and got a lovely
site under a locust tree complete with about one dozen "Peacocks" and relaxed. Up at the "Top'o the morn'in" and headed to
meet up with Anna in Santa Barbara to celebrate St. Patrick's Day. Drove along
the Pacific Ocean past many "State Beaches" with lots of beautiful flowers
everywhere. We took a site in a small RV park near and walked out on Stearns
wharf before meeting Anna at the "Endless Summer Restaurant" on the harbour at 3
P.M. (Bob and I were there with Anna in 2005). We had a wonderful visit but I
was the only one who had "green" beer. Anna and I left a message with Bob and
she finally met Emma. We said our final goodbyes at 6 P.M. and headed to our
site where Eric ate the huge "jalapeno" croissant and popcorn that Anna
got for him! Next day we continued heading north on the
scenic routes following the ocean - huge ritzy homes, tall palms, lemon trees,
lots of lushness everywhere and Canada Geese! We passed through "Buellton" -
home of the "Original Split Pea Soup"; "Solvang" - a 1911 re-created Danish
Village with lots of tourists and buses (featured in "Saturday Evening Post"),
with artificial storks on chimneys for "good luck". We now are entering wine
country with many fields of flowers and veggies and orchards. Somehow, we were
suddenly on a narrow winding side road working our way up and down a mountain
range, but no problem with the "Big Guy" so that's good to know! We worked back
to the ocean road to stay overnight at "Oceans - Gateway to the Dunes" and got
our first rain in weeks - not knowing then that it wouldn't stop for
weeks!! Still raining the next day as we worked our way
along the coast to "Big Sur" following peaceful sideroads and old Highway 1
instead of US 101 North. We passed through lots of live oaks, the "Valley of the
Bears", "Harmony" - an artist's colony (population 18); "Cambria" with its
Moonstone Beach with lots of little shops on one main street - very quaint
(called Mom in my raincoat at a payphone); Next we happened upon "W.H. Hearst
State park" and drove up to the "Hearst Castle"; tour to the castle quite
expensive but absolutely fabulous free exhibits with postcards and books with
its history for us to see. He had unbelievable wealth and many different
interests. It seemed that within minutes we left the Hearst Farms and were now
climbing up the side of a mountain on a very curvy road with no
shoulders. As it was getting too dark to head back, we kept moving slowly
forward and climbing with signs saying "Road still open to Big Sur." The rains
got even heavier with water driving in through the door on my side by the
mountain (never happened before). We passed by many rock slides and could see
the road ahead winding back and forth along the mountain side with the waves
crashing way below. I of course, looked straight ahead or down at Emma
only. We came across huge roadwork to rebuild parts of the washed out areas with
narrow one-lane paths to cross over "the slump" (as Eric called it) and heavy,
cable netting on my side to catch falling rocks and boulders. As we got closer
to "Big Sur", there were expensive gated-private homes hanging on the
side of the mountain!! - plus small cafes and art galleries scattered here and
there; a library in a small cottage; sign for "Ocean View Dining"; a small Shell
station up on a ledge of the mountain; and finally the "Big Sur Campground and
cabins. We set up on a cement pad next to a small river but needed rubber boots
to wade through the mud to check out the washrooms. And guess what - there was a
payphone but it was cold and too rainy and I really wasn't in a good mood. We
found out that worst storms were coming and there was a forty-foot washout north
towards Monterey, our next destination, so we have to return on the same
road. Whoopee!! As there were no TV or Wi-Fi signals, we tucked in early after
reading a brochure and realizing that we were camped right by the "Big Sur
River", plus Eric thought we should get an early start. Guess we'll see what
daybreak brings! There were heavy rains and winds all night long
so we slept very fitfully. I awoke at 4 A.M. and was sure the "Big Sur" river
was higher and we were in the midst of our own "Tsunami" and would be washed
away. Eric tried to calm me down but it took awhile to calm down (Emma got lots
of hugging and petting). Finally I dozed off and on till daylight came and I
could finally see the river. We left in heavy rain and were told to drive
"slowly" and watch for falling rocks by the camp staff who checked with the road
patrol. Road-crew were already out clearing branches and rockslides. We had to
cross the one-lane "slump" again but I had my eyes closed most of the time and
then we passed through several large rockslides areas and then we passed through
several large rockslide areas and mudslides plush gushing waterfalls. At one of
the sharp curves, a fella came running towards us waving his arms trying to get
a "school bus" around a slide by coming onto our side of the road. Imagine - a
way up here!! We finally reached the "Hearst Castle" area
fifty miles back after over two hours - all safe and sound! Rain is really
heavy now! We got back to Cambria and crossed over to Highway 101 so we're
climbing again - no problem but very loud with the lower passing gear. We
entered a huge wine area near "Paso Robles" with many wine tasting haciendas -
one was called "Fat Cat Farm" - fields and fields of grapes as far as the eye
can see right up to the base of the mountains (many were flooded). After four
hours on the road we were directly across from "Big Sur" and moving northward to
Monterey (on this side of the mountain range). Suddenly the rain stopped
- just as it had started! After following the "City of Monterey - Path of
History" markers we passed the old 1845 Fisherman's Wharf; Cannery Row in the
historic district with John Steinbeck banners; the old Whaling Station,; Robert
Louis Stevenson's 1879 home, etc. We headed back to the "Santa Cruz RV Resort" in
Scott's Valley passing a "Dole" fresh vegetable plant; artichoke fields; a
Wildlife Refugee/Canada Geese flying over and went to bed early - hopefully for
a better sleep tonight as we sure needed it! Next morning, we went to see
the famous "boardwalk" in Santa Cruz - America's true Surf City. We saw the
well-known "Cocoanut Grove" and lots of volleyball nets on the beach plus the
vintage wooden roller coaster (85+ years old) and the 1911 Looff Carousel with
70 hand-carved horses and the original 342-pipe organ. Both are national
historic landmarks. We then followed old Highway 1 along the ocean to San
Francisco passing from rain to sun off and on. Soon we are overlooking the
lovely city in the valley with its "many-coloured houses"; the Golden Gate
Bridge in the distance; many streets with overhead streetcar wires; Alcatraz in
the harbour. We passed through the Golden gate Park and entered the 1776
Presidio area; stopped for a picture of the bridge from the "Fort Point National
Historic Site "; got pictures of the "Exploratorium" (Before Bob and I had
visited there in 2000 on the way to New Zealand); went to "Fisherman's Wharf on
Marine Drive and saw the trolley heading down; drove through San Fran's "Little
Saigon Area", "Japantown" and "Chinatown", a really great tour and Eric did very
well going up and down the steep city streets! We circled San Fran Bay and camped overnight in
Redwood City, California, near San Jose (which Eric really liked) before
starting our journey through Silicon Valley (very built up area for miles). We
stopped in Oakland for a picture of the bay and guess what ---- Eric saw a screw
in the side of a tire - Why not!! Eventually we found a Goodyear dealer and
after sitting inside for three hours we were "on the road again" with four new
tires! Of course, we missed our exit as so much traffic and couldn't get over in
time and ended up on the San Fran/Oakland Bay Bridge for six dollars heading
back to Fan Fran. Halfway across we managed to get onto Treasure Island (great
view of Alcatraz), made a U-Turn and got back to Oakland. Now rush hour, so we
found an alternate street (no freeway) - slower but very steady and worked our
way to a campsite in Vallejo, California. Starting to get much cooler as
we head north but did see some spring daffodils (quite different from Southern
California). We stopped near the Russian River at the "Cloverdale KOA" with a
payphone so while doing the laundry, I called Mom, Shirley and a few others. For
some reason, there was no door on the laundry room, so while chatting, one male
duck and his two females walked right in to see me as raining again! Next morning, Eric checked the highway
situation and it seemed better to keep moving forward as there still was lots of
snow inland on the Coast Range Mountains. As we left we lost the front speakers
so I got to hear a very loud Rush Limbaugh on the rear speakers! Many
fields were flooded so when we saw an overhead sign with "Highway 101
Open-Chains Required", we were shocked. We decided to turn back and stay in
Ukiah to wait for the road to clear. Next morning, locals were leaving, so we
decided to head north towards the "Redwood Highway" with caution as there was
still snow on the sides from yesterday's storm. Now time for heavy
tights!! Many tree trunks are covered with water and the rivers are roaring from
so much rain as we cut through the mountain range. We are starting to see some
huge Redwoods as well as the "Drive Thru Tree", "Confusion Hill", "World's Only
TreeHouse" "One Log House", with gift shops and chainsaw carvings -didn't stop!
We are also seeing signs - "Road Flooded Out", "Rock Slide", - not again!! Of
course, now there is heavy rain. As we got on the highway to the "Avenue
of the Giants", we saw a rock slide" sign, so headed back to the main highway.
While heading up, Eric noticed the Check ABS brakes warning light and when he
got out to check - No brake fluid. We worked our way back slowly to
Garberville (6 miles) with flashers on. Eric got the last two bottles of brake
fluid. When he put it in, we had an air lock. The only garage in town had a
"weed-smoking" proprietor who found pin hole leaks in the line but couldn't
hoist us up so we headed for Eureka, California (65 miles ahead) very slowly so
we didn't have to use our brakes - what a drive that was (for me, anyway). We
got to the Five-Star Chrysler dealer at 4:30 P.M., of course being Friday again,
had to make an appointment for early Monday and wait at the "Eureka KOA". We
stayed at the site all weekend as the brake fluid was really low but managed to
catch up on my notes and postcards and make some calls on their outdoor payphone
(dressed warmly in my raincoat). Up early Monday to a sunny sky after three-four
weeks of constant rain and got to Chrysler dealer at 7 A.M. for our 8 A.M.
appointment. We moved in with Emma to the lounge area so I worked on my journal.
After two hours, the service manager announced that we had a rusty, leaky front
cross line and it would take two days to get the part from Mississippi. He also
said that since there was so much rust underneath, he would "dump the
"Big Guy" - Eric wished that I hadn't heard that part! Then he returned to say
that when putting the tires back on, they noticed that the cleaned-off line was
actually now so leaky that they recommended we leave the vehicle. Eric took a
Chrysler shuttle to Enterprise and rented a Caravan while I gathered things for
the next three days spent in the "Big 6 Motel". One good thing was that we did
get to drive the "Avenue of the Giants" and tour the area in our rental.
(However no pictures as my film did not advance correctly - Oh Well!) Early Wednesday, March 30, Eric returned our
rental and took their shuttle to Chrysler to wait for the part to be installed.
I stayed with Emma in the motel. I did not expect the knock on the door was Eric
- Back early as wrong part arrived. Unbelievable. Now no rental, no "Big
Guy", so later that day, we walked around Eureka and discovered that the
"Sequoia Park and Zoo" (an old growth redwood forest) was right near downtown -
how wonderful! Finally on Thursday, the Chrysler shuttle came for us and we
loaded everything in (Emma and all) and then at Chryslers, we unloaded and
waited inside for the "Big Guy" appointment. Finally off, three hours later
despite there being some air still in the line since they could not bleed one
side owing to a rusty part if removed would be hard to replace immediately. We
picked up more brake fluid just in case and headed back for one last night at
the "Eureka KOA" with apologies for leaving earlier that week. Finally "on the road again" Friday and drove
through the very beautiful "Redwood National State Park" with ocean on one side,
lagoon on the other and lots of elk and of course redwoods; and many tourist
traps (as Eric called them). As we entered "Crescent City" we could see the
damage from the Tsunami that hit earlier this month. We checked into the
"Crescent City Redwoods KOA" for two nights to rest up and they had a payphone
and sun! We continued north following the coast on April 3 after 26 days in
California and entered Oregon. The Oregon coastline was magnificent - huge
rocks rising from the ocean, white crashing waves, large covered sand-dunes,
beautiful, beaches and sun - at least the first day and many state picnic
parks. We drove through the "South Coast" (Oregon's Adventure Coast); Brookings/Harbour
(Oregon's Banana Belt with the mildest climate); Port Orford (Gateway to
America's Wild Rivers Coast - where the mountains touch the Pacific Ocean);
Bandon by the Sea (world-class golf courses and Cranberry Capital of Oregon);
Coos Bay with "Oregon Dunes National Recreational Area". Next we drove through
the "Central Coast" with lots of historic beach areas such as Newport/Nye Beach,
condos, motels, inns, shops, galleries, spas, etc. (very built up). We then
entered the "North Coast" area between the Columbia River and Neskowin Valley -
very pastoral (dairy farms, green fields, commercial flower farms -daffodils);
Tillamook and famous cheese factory; "Seaside" - Oregon's first seashore resort
with a famous promenade for visitors from Portland, Oregon. We are now on very
windy roads and there's heavy rain again. We are now approaching
"Washington State", so stayed at the "Astoria/Warrenton/Seaside KOA" with our
most beautiful site so far - lots of robins and western Meadowlarks, rhodos,
pines with lots of long needles, trees with moss, ravine behind, lodge ahead
with indoor heated pool, hot tub and games-room, but tons of kids
everywhere using them - but no payphone to call Shirley (April 4 - my
baby sister's 60th). Next day we toured the historic district of
Astoria located at the mouth of the Columbia River and Pacific Ocean - lots of
freighters and container ships in the harbour. We then headed to Portland,
Oregon on a very curvy road in the fog and rain - lots of moss, lichen, ferns
and wild daffodils. Portland, known as "The City of Roses" has a beautiful
downtown with tree lined streets (many are in bloom), tulips everywhere; central
parks, iron water fountains, brick streets, bronze sculpture (like mini New-York
complete with Chinatown). Eric said he would live there. We drove through the
"Columbia River Gorge National Recreational Area" past the "Multnomah Falls"
with its historic lodge (nice but not Niagara Falls). There are seventy-seven
water falls on the Gorge and it is the "granddaddy" at 620 feet (only three
falls in U.S.A. higher). We stayed near the old locks at "Cascade Locks KOA"
(locks now at Bonneville Dam). Still raining next day as we drove back to
Portland to head for Seattle, Washington, with a short stop to tour Fort
Vancouver, Washington (1849-1906) with its twenty-two big beige homes known as
"Officers Row" and the old fort with an English-style garden. Also saw the
"Ulysses S. Grant House". On our way, we experienced heavy hail - many
cars pulled over with flashers on or in the ditch. We passed the exit for "Mount
St. Helen's" (quite a way to go on mountainous highway, so forget it). Highway 5
between Portland and Seattle is heavily travelled - approaching Tacoma near
Seattle it grew from six-lanes to 10-lanes with lots of traffic jams and
accidents. We stayed at the "Seattle/Tacoma KOA" for two nights so we could
explore Seattle - had a payphone so able to call home finally and learned that
Bob was in the hospital. The Port of Seattle on Puget Sound is huge and very
busy with great views from the "Seattle Space Needle" (605 feet tall - built for
the 1962 World's Fair), but couldn't find a parking space to go up. We passed
"Pioneer Square"; "Safeco Field" - home of the "Mariners" baseball team; "2 West
Field Event Center" - home of the "Seahawks" basketball team; the original
Starbucks - all located on a vey hilly downtown street with heavy traffic
everywhere and many traffic jams all the way back to our campsite in nearby
Tacoma. That evening we got out our sleeping bags as getting much colder. The next day we started heading east finally
as sun predicted followed by another week of rain, so we decided to "make a run"
through the mountains while the weather was clear. While heading for the
"Snoqualmie Pass" (3,022 feet) there were many pull-over areas - "Chain-Up Area
Only" and lots of snow covered mountains as we get higher; trucks with
snowmobiles, frozen lakes, wind-farms up on the plateaus with a few irrigated
fields and lots of hay storage buildings and horses. As we crossed the Columbia
River down from the Wanapum Dam, we started climbing again - no trees here and
hit another plateau with flat and no snow scrubland, "Washington's High
Desert". Saw a sign - "Crop Names in Fence Line" and as we drove for miles we
could see them - (peas, alfalfas, beans, sweet corn, potatoes, Timothy Hay,
field corn). Farmers were just starting to till the huge fields and it was flat
as far as you could see. It was so windy there were "Sand Spouts" and tumbleweed
crossing the highway. There were no mountains at all here - just miles of fields
which we had not expected. As we approached Spokane, Washington, we could see
snow capped mountains in the distance. Before heading to the "Spoken KOA", we
explored downtown with lots of very decorative 1930 buildings, Bob Hope's alma
mater - Gonzaga University; Riverfront Park - location of Spokane's World Fair,
Expo 74, hand carved wooden Looff Carousel (1909); old "Steam Plant (now with
stores, restaurants); "Bing Crosby Theatre" with largest collection of his
memorabilia. Up early for a big day of driving
through the Rocky Mountain ranges and gorges on our way to Billings, Montana,
hopefully in sun. Many signs such as "Watch for Ice in Shaded Areas"; "Chain
Removal Area"; "Potholes for Next 10 Miles"; "Steep Grade - Use Caution". Much
more snow at "Lookout Pass"(4,630 feet) as we enter Montana. Some areas had
rolling "treeless" hills - must be the "foothills" of the Rocky Mountains. It
started to cloud over around 1 P.M. near Butte, Montana with some snow flurries
and lots of roadwork as we approach the "Continental Divide" area at 5,902 feet.
We continue climbing with lots of snow around the "Big Guy" down-shifting a lot.
I choose not to look down now! At 6,393 feet, we start heading downhill -
many "Runaway truck gravel ramps", as we curve our way down but thank goodness,
the highway is wider (unlike Nevada and California) with a centre median.
Finally we see a "Chain Removal Area - End of Grade" sign! However, after
passing through an area with fields, some trees - covered hills, lots of
grasslands, we started climbing again, and there is more snow with
"Chain-Up Areas". We passed the sign for "Yellowstone National Park" but did not
turn off in case the weather and roads are worse there or may even be closed??
We are now in the "Crazy Mountains" area with sun again, cows and calves on the
mountain sides and herds of pronghorn antelope, plus a long train with coal
cars. Surely we are finally in the foothills and the worse is "over!"
Yeah!! We finally found a campground as many are closed till April 15 and
decided to stay three nights and recuperate. So glad we're through the mountains
finally!!! We stayed on our site all day to catch upon
notes and plan our trip strategy. There was an outdoor payphone so I bundled up
and managed to reach Bob (just home after one week in hospital). The next day we
explored Billings, Montana - UPS store to mail taxes (hard to locate); original
"Northern Pacific Railway" buildings and depot station; "Western Heritage
Center"; Yellowstone Art Museum; "Wells Fargo" main office; "Boot Hill Cemetery"
up on a nearby escarpment overlooking Billings and stopped at "Cabela's -
World's Largest Outfitter". The next day, after crossing the Yellowstone River -
the nation's longest free-flowing river, we set off from the "High Plains" area
to the "Great Plains". We passed lots of wheat and alfalfa fields (no growth
yet) and cattle farms with few trees. We stopped for a short visit at the
"Little Bighorn Battlefield" which includes the "Custer National Cemetery" and
holds an annual "Custer's Last Stand Re-Enactment". We are climbing again
through the "Big Horn Mountains", 4,500 feet with lots of huge cattle herds way
up here on what appears to be rolling hills (very deceiving). Mid-afternoon
found us leaving Montana and entering "Wyoming - Forever West" - suddenly the
highway was red with a small red mountain in the distance? but this soon
changed as we approached Sheridan. We saw the historic Sheridan Inn (Buffalo
Bill and Will Rogers stayed here); "Trail End State Historic Site" (beautiful
stone and brick home with tile roof), huge old "Sheridan County" building with
gold dome' "Snob Hill" - huge homes above town; all cement streets' lots of old
business buildings with great rooflines (1907); bronze sculptures on every block
of main Street and snow-capped mountains behind. It truly is a very beautiful,
neat and rich city - voted "Best Western Town in the nation". We set up
at the "Big Horn Mountain KOA" on "Happy Trails" near "Big Goose Creek" and four
Canada Geese flew over - honking away to welcome us, plus fat robins. The next day we headed for Rapid City, South
Dakota. We are still in the "High Plains" area at 4900 feet and very
windy with lots of wooden snow fencing along highway and many huge trucks parked
next to piles of gravel so they're "ever ready"!! Passed through "Buffalo",
population 3900 with the "Occidental Hotel" (Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Lid
stayed there); nearly Crazy Woman Canyon (even had "Crazy Woman Liquors" and
"Crazy Woman Creek".) We drove into rolling hills area with lots of cattle and
horses and mules followed by miles of sagebrush covered plains; coal outcrops
and then we started climbing again before heading down into the "Black Hills
National Forest" and "Sundance" to see the tiny jail where "The Sundance
Kid" spent eighteen months in 1887. We crossed into South Dakota and headed for
Rapid City where we finally found a campground open "Happy Holiday Resort" on
the Mount Rushmore Road - complete with two bunnies. The next day (April 14), we stayed at the site
as "Winter Storm Warning" in effect and very cold -high 34°
F, low 28° F and I wrote
postcards and caught up on notes. We even put on the propane - first time in
years! Since it was warmer and sunny the next day, we decided to try and go to
Mount Rushmore and do our last mountain climb in sun (hopefully) - very
"touristy" things but many not open yet. We didn't pay the Eleven dollars for
the "convenience park" at the museum which, of course, had the best views, but
still managed to get good pictures from the highway. On our return trip, we saw
lots of deer but no "Big Horn Sheep". Rapid City - "Star of the West" was very
interesting - "The City of Presidents" project with life-size bronzes of
America's Presidents on prominent corners; "Berlin Wall" memorial (largest
exhibit of original pieces in USA) with two 12-foot segments of the wall and
tank obstacles with photographs and interpretative placards; :Dakota Mill and
Grain" and "Abys Feed and Seed" granaries by the tracks near downtown and then a
huge development nearby with lots of hotels, businesses, restaurants and
subdivisions (some still being built). Back at our site, I read the story of
sculptor Gutzon Borglum who worked on the monumental sculptures of George
Washington, Thomas Jefferson, Theodore Roosevelt and Abraham Lincoln for
fourteen years (began in 1927 at age 60 and cost one million dollars to
complete). It is very windy as we leave the "Black
Hills" and enter "Wall Drug Country" with thirty miles of various signs -
"Rooster with Sun"; "Something to Crow About"; "Free Coffee and Donuts for
snowmobiles"; Skinny Salon; Tourist Info , etc., etc. We finally entered "Wall "
and saw Wall Drug Store ("World Largest Drug Store" - since 1931) - very
touristy and packed. Next we entered the "Buffalo Gap National Grasslands" and
passed the exit for the "Badlands National Park" (Fifteen dollars entrance fee)
with the "Minuteman Mission National Historic Site" (remnants of the Cold war -
1962 underground launch control centre). We passed "Presho", famous for pheasant
hunting and were going to stay at their KOA but it was flooded. We moved to
"Al's Oasis" (we had seen signs for miles for 5˘ coffee)
and it also had a campground overlooking the Missouri River (If you look really
hard, you could see it across the highway). It did have a "drive up
payphone" with a long cord but it was too cold and windy to stand out there.
Next morning, we stopped at "Al's Oasis" - a 91 year South Dakota tradition with
5˘ coffee,
Buffalo Burgers and Homemade Pie as well as a gift shop, clothing store, Oasis
Pump 'N Pak and supermarket. After crossing the Missouri River, we entered South
Dakota's "Prime Pheasant Hunting Area" with miles of corn and stubble fields and
many small ponds with muskrat houses. Hunting is a year-round sport here - small
games, waterfowl and big game in fall; predator hunting in winter, turkey
hunting in spring as well as partridges, quail dove, coyote, fox and deer. The
Missouri River Corridor is main route for over 400,000 migrating Canada Geese.
We stopped in "Mitchell" to see the "Corn Palace" - unique "ear"chitecture which
is decorated each year with thousands of bushels of corn, grains and native
grasses and is FREE. The main street signs have "an ear of corn", I got a strip
of postcards at the gift-shop showing the various decorations over the years. We
then headed for "Sioux Falls" - many buildings made from local red rock (pink
quartz). We stopped at "Fall Park" on Big Sioux River with rapid-type falls,
observation tower and red rock outcrops - great park. Finally found a campground
that was open. Next morning we headed for "Sioux City", Iowa, passing through
farmland with cornfields and wheat and lots of cattle. We are now at 1100 feet -
lowest we've been since leaving the West Coast. We passed a bluff on the
Missouri River - "Spirit Mound" (one of the few sites remaining where Lewis and
Clark stood on August 25, 1804). After circling around and crossing the Missouri
River a few times, we both agreed that the "Big Soo" area of the "Mighty Mo
River" is a "huge mess" to get around and we finally realized this: North Sioux
City is in South Dakota, South Sioux City is in Nebraska and Sioux City is in
Iowa - all in the "Tri-State/Tri-City" area. We stayed on the "Iowa" side of the
Missouri River and headed south. Suddenly, I noticed two huge Canada Geese
flying right beside us down the median - unbelievable - they follow us
everywhere! We reached the joint area of "Council Bluff,
Iowa and Omaha, Nebraska" on each side of the Missouri River - now under 1000
feet elevation and crossed into Nebraska to explore downtown "Omaha" - lots of
bronze sculptures in the financial district on Dodge Street representing the
"Wilderness of Nebraska", huge water park with "flocks of Canada Geese flying
up" sculpture; large bison sculpture coming though building; and finally saw a
humungous sculpture depicting "Wagon Train with Settlers" covering a whole block
complete with children, dogs, broken wagon wheels following a rocky road, etc.
(very realistic and quite amazing). We decided to do a quick tour of: Council
Bluffs, Iowa" before staying at the "West Omaha KOA" in Gretna, Nebraska.
"Council Bluff" had many Four-Square Houses (like Sydney); a central park with
fountain and large bronze sculpture of "Squirrels playing with Acorns";
Haymarket Square with old store fronts; a unique Squirrel Cage Jail (one of
three remaining examples of rotary jails); a small central square with clock -
quite a nice city. As we returned to Nebraska and finally got through the rush
hour in Omaha, we drove back to rolling fields and farms as we got near our
campground. Found a payphone booth outside and called Bob, who was recuperating
slowly; Mom and Shirley. We had a huge thunderstorm overnight. Next morning, we headed back towards Omaha and
crossed into Iowa passing through the "Loess Hills" - windblown hills
(only two in the world - others in China). Saw a few coal-fired power plants
and many flooded fields, especially after the thunderstorm and stopped in
"Hamburg", home of the "Vogel Popcorn Co", with huge granaries for corn. We
crossed into "Missouri - The Show-Me State", with lots of dark earth fields as
we get closer to the "South Loess Hills". There are many budding trees, green
grass, blooming Native Daphne and Iandian Pear and flocks of red-winged
blackbirds - must be spring! We toured "St. Joseph, Missouri" - home of the
"Pony Express"; lots of ornate churches; huge brick homes (many in disrepair);
"Robidoux Row" with old store fronts - (many closed); old "warehouse" district;
Patee House Museum" - originally an 1858 hotel built to serve travellers as the
railroad pushed west; Jesse James home where he was shot and killed on April 3,
1882 by fellow gang member Bob Ford; "Buchanan County Courthouse" where the Ford
Brothers were indicted for Jesse James' murder. Also passed "Platte City" and
the courthouse where Bland Barrow was on trial for the Bonnie and Clyde
robberies and shoot-out in 1933. Next we approached the joint area of Kansas
City, Missouri as well as Kansas City, Kansas, also divided by the Missouri
River. In one day we have gone from budding trees and not much grass to
flowering trees and grass that needs cutting. We toured the "Kansas" side first
- huge County Buildings, many boarded-up buildings (as well as a few churches);
a huge warehouse/shipping area and old granary near the river; huge "Black
Mural" downtown and many bridges. We're now on the other side in Kansas
City, Missouri - Historic City Market as well as River Market; "Minsky's" with
many shops inside their "delivery doors"; many beautiful old refurbished
high-end store fronts; huge new "Convention District" and "Financial District";
"Negro Leagues Baseball Museum" and "American Jazz Museum"; as well as the world
headquarters of "Hallmark Cards" (1910). While driving to the Kansas City East
KOA", we passed the "Harry Truman Library" in his home in "Independence" and saw
sign near Blue Spring "Home of David Cook-American Idol". Since this area had so much to explore, we
stayed three nights. We rested at the site for a day and then toured the city.
Kansas City is famous for "barbecue" - "always slow-cooked over wood - usually
hickory with sauce added just before serving - More than eighty local
establishments with their specialties - ribs, pork, ham, mutton, sausages and
even fish. Thus we headed to "Bates City Bar BQue" (advertised in the KOA
brochures) "Famous for Hickory Smoked Meats Since 1976". Many locals there and
had its own smoker in back (got pictures). After that, we went downtown - first
"Union Station" (a renovated jewel of the railroad age) with the "Gottlieb
Planetarium" and "Science City"and also the Amtrak Station); next we drove on
"Honorary Archives Way" near the National Archives; then to the "Power and Light
District" - the "dining and nightclub" area (between 12th-14th Street) -
Daddy's, Bazooka's, Drunken Fish, etc.; then the "18th and Vine Jazz District"
with huge jazz-related murals; next passed "Sky Station" - four very unique
metal towers right over the highway (as space is at a premium downtown) . All in
all, a very interesting city!! Most pictures had to be taken from the "Big Guy"
as no parking on the streets - only underground. There were lots more sights to
see but no time left so we headed to our site. Next day, April 22, "Good Friday", we started
heading north to "Des Moines, Iowa" on a rainy day, passed green rolling hills,
cattle farms, horses and as we near Iowa, more cornfields with stubble and
farming. We entered the "Silos and Smokestacks National Heritage Area" with many
dairy farms, vineyards, tractor assembly plants and museums telling the story of
American agriculture. We set up for two nights in their local KOA (payphone
not hooked up yet) in Adel on the Raccoon River, between "Wild Rose Way" and
"Goldfinch Lane". After the rain ended, the sunset over the flat Prairie lands
of Iowa was absolutely magnificent! Next day we explored the "Des Moines" area
- first to "Winterset" - birthplace of John Wayne with lots of John Deer dealers
and six "Madison County Covered Bridge" nearby. We crossed the "Des Moines
River" and saw the "State Capital Complex" with huge 275 foot dome and four
smaller ones around it; drove down "Grand Avenue" past City Hall - a "Beaux Art"
construction with many beautiful metal planters all along the streets full of
spring flowers; stopped at the "John and Mary Pappajohn Sculpture Park" (saw a
Scottish wedding party with kilts and twenty-six works of art); short stop at
the "Botanical Centre" (but five dollar fee); passed many huge homes on "Terrace
Hill" as well as in the University area such as the Governor's Residence,
Salisbury House and Gardens, Greenwood Park and Rose Garden; then to "Historic
Valley Junction" on "Railroad Avenue" - the original downtown "West Des Moines"
(1890s) with renovated old stores, art galleries, antique shops and restaurants;
passed "Jordan House" once part of the "Underground Railroad Network to
Freedom". Heading back, we passed many subdivisions and suddenly, countryside. On Easter morning I donned my yellow sweats
with "Boyds Bear Bunny Brooch" and bought two "Bunny Blue" drumsticks. We left
for "Minnesota" driving past miles of fields and huge farms, large granaries,
not many bushes, some "wind-farms", large long "hog barns" (not a pig to be
seen). We went into "Mason City" (Meredith Willson's boyhood home (1895) -
songwriter and playwright of the "Music Man" and "River City")" saw "The Music
Men Square" with 1912 River City Streetscape replica and set designs from the
Warner Brothers motion picture; two buildings designed by Frank Lloyd Wright;
found "Cannonball 457" - former Minneapolis and St. Louis Railway Steam
Locomotive (1912). On our return, we entered "Clear Lake" to see "The Surf
Ballroom and Museum" - home to big band and rock n' roll entertainers, and where
Buddy Holly, Ritchie Valens and the Big Bopper played their final concert. The
famous "cloud machine" still operates. As we headed to our campsite in "Albert
Lea, Minnesota", we stopped in the town first which is nestled between two lakes
- many old brick buildings with very ornate decoration (1880) - but some boarded
up, lovely old Post Office building with lots of scrolls, "Liquor Depot" in old
train station, Old "Masonic Temple" now an Art Centre. It was obvious that
"Albert Lea" had money at one time. As we drove to the KOA, we saw "pelicans" on
the fishing pier and of course Canada Geese! Since the sun was still out, we sat
out and ate our "Easter" KFC chicken. As Eric really wanted to visit "Fargo, North
Dakota", we started to head west through "Minnesota" and then start north again.
We headed back to the outskirts of "Sioux Falls" passing through "Austin,
Minnesota" - home of world-renowned "Spam - the miracle meat" and many "drive
through" grain-storage barns and fertile farmlands as we're on the eastern edge
of the "Great Plains". I-90 is the major east-west highway as I-75 is the
north-south highway (Highway 75 is "The King of Trails"). We drove through
"Worthington" which hosts the "Great Gobbler Gallop" each fall - a local turkey
races against one from Cuero, Texas. Town has many Mexican restaurants, "Red
Wing Shoe" store, "Buffalo Billfold Company" and "Pioneer Village". Passed
"Luverne" - home of National Geographic photographer, Jim Brandenburg (famous
for his striking photos of the prairie and Minnesota wildlife, before crossing
the "Big Sioux River" as we bypassed "Sioux Falls" and re-entered "South
Dakota". Heading north to Fargo, we could see snow in the tree-line. Oh no!!
Passed sign for the "North/South Continental Divide" as we passed through the
"Glacial Lakes and Prairies Region" - a land sculpted by glaciers thousands of
years ago and inhabited by the Dakota tribes, frontier soldiers and
homesteaders. Started to see many flooded fields and marsh areas with muskrat
houses as we entered "North Dakota" and approached Fargo heading to a campground
in Casselton, North Dakota on the other side. Lots of flooding from the "Red
River" along this highway. We took our site for three nights to "rest up" and
then explored Fargo and area (not many campgrounds around here). We discovered
that Fargo is a joint area with Moorhead, Minnesota (divided by the Red River
coming down from Manitoba, Canada). "Moorhead" is located near the trains with
lots of containers and has a long "strip" street with small businesses while
"Fargo" seems more prosperous - modern "City Hall"; old Hotel Donaldson, Hotel
Bison and Powers Hotel; nice old Railway Station with "Bicycle Business"
restaurant and "Great Northern" Railway Car; old "Fargo Theatre" (1926); many
multi-coloured "Buffalo" statues; Old Fargo bank; "Cass County Courthouse"
building with dome and clocks. We left "Fargo - The Old Cattle Town and heading
towards "West Fargo" and stopped at the Visitors Centre shaped like a granary
with the "Fargo Walk of Fame" (Al Hirt had signed). Also passed "Bonanzaville,
USA" with authentic cabins, school, etc. and the "Red River Valley Fairgrounds"
and before heading back to our site, we toured the small town of "Casselton" -
lots of old brick buildings with ornate fronts and rooflines. We started south-east to Minneapolis,
Minnesota, bypassing Fargo and re-crossing the flooded Red River before entering
the "Prairie Pothole Region" of Minnesota (Tall Grass prairie and wetland
areas). Saw a big highway sign "DNT TXT + DRV" --- "Don't Text and Drive"; a
'herd of buffalo" on a roadside farm; many "planned" hunting areas with blinds
and cornstalk. We had a short stop in "St Cloud" so I could see the "Munsinger
and Clemens Gardens" along the Mississippi River which flows through the heart
of the city - there was a "Formal Garden" and a "Heritage Garden"; the "Virginia
Clemens Rose Garden" and "Renaissance Fountain with Cranes" (not open yet but
had outside brochures to pick up). St. Cloud is quite beautiful - lots of
granite buildings and statues (an ad campaign in 1921 called it "The Nitty
Gritty Granite City" and local granite was shipped all across the U.S.A.).
Nearby "Quarry Park" contains thirty old quarries which are now rock trimmed
ponds used for swimming, scuba diving, fishing with hiking trails around. We're
now heading into "Minneapolis-St. Paul Areas" - Minneapolis "The City of Lakes"
is Minnesota's largest city, while St. Paul is the State Capital and second
largest city - lots of subdivisions coming in. We stayed at the "Minneapolis
Northwest/Maple Grove KOA" out in the countryside complete with prairie dogs in
the playground and booked four nights to explore. Up at 3 A.M. to watch the "Royal Wedding"
(thank goodness this place had good aerial digital TV reception as many don't).
Watched it and then other specials so remained at site all day. Next day we went
into "Maple Grove" to check for a payphone to call Mom and Bob (no luck).
Thought we'd head back to "Monticello" as hundreds of trumpeter swans winter on
the Mississippi River where warm water released from a power plant keeps the
river ice-free but must be gone already. Lots of Canada geese though. Stopped in
"Elk River" for pictures of huge bronze elk and two small murals depicting life
in the old town. A nearby state historic farm is still a working farm with horse
drawn plows and costumed staff from 1850s - still closed. Stopped at "Culver's"
for their "Classic ButterBurgers/Crinkle Fries Basket" and Vanilla Frozen
Custard Waffle Cones. Next day we headed for the "Twin Cities" hoping for less
traffic on Sunday. A few highlights only as many in both cities: Minneapolis
- "Necollet Mall, "known as "Eat Street" with ethnic eateries; very ornate Court
House/City Hall and State Federal Buildings; "Target Field" with the "Minnesota
Twins"; old Warehouse District with many painted signs on sides; old brick
roads; the gold-coloured "Wells Fargo Centre"; Historic Hill with huge
homes; short stop at "Como Park" (zoo, glass-conservatory, lakeside pavilion,
etc. etc.). St Paul: Gold-domed State Capital with "the Quadruga Golden
Horses up front; St. Paul Hotel" - 1910; the Cathedral of St. Paul; the
"Fitzgerald" - oldest theatre; "XCel Energy Centre (home of the "Minnesota
Wild"); "Rice Park" includes sculptures (Plants and statues as Charles M.
Schultz was a St. Paul native), et. etc. Buildings in St. Paul are much more
ornate as the State Capital, I guess! As we head back to our site, we passed
"Little Canada" - checked for payphones at gas station - one inside not working;
one next to highway outside being used (and when he finally left called Mom but
no answer - Oh Well!! We left the "Twin Cities" area on May 2, and
entered "Wisconsin" (The Badger State and Americas Dairyland) heading east and
"homeward" as it starts getting very cold again and we cross the Mississippi
River for last time and finally are "East of the Mississippi" in Hudson,
Wisconsin. Stopped in "Chippewa Falls" and visited its oldest business - "Jacob
Leinenkugel Bearing Company" (1867) - an Old World Germanic brewery and got
pictures of many murals depicting "Historic Highlights of Chippewa Falls". Also
passed "Mason Shoes" - famous shoes and boots since 1904. Thought we'd stay at
"Monster World Campground" way out in farmland but everything closed (it's the
Central Wisconsin "Dirttrack Raceway" but must be very seasonal. Worked our way
back through farmland on back roads (very well paved and travelled); crossed the
Wisconsin River and found a campground on "Lake DuBay Shores" - sand
everywhere!! As we headed to "Green Bay, Wisconsin" next
day, we visited the "Leigh Yawkey Wooden Art Centre/Sculpture Park" in "Wausau"
and took pictures of the garden sculptures in snow flurries - should be
interesting. There were many wonderfully restored Classical Revival style houses
(1901) as well as some Grecian Revival (1927) among newer ones. The "River
District" on "Washington Square" had restaurants and ritzy stores - very lovely
city with "small feeling"! Driving out, we passed "Granite Peak Ski Area" right
outside the city. This "Central Sands" area (the heart of Wisconsin) contains
pastoral farm towns of the great sand plain plus industrial centres along the
Wisconsin River. Saw many "glacier" rocks in front yards with paintings on them.
"Green Bay" is Wisconsin's oldest community, settled originally by the French as
a fur-trading centre but now famous for the "Green Bay Packers" at "Lambeau
Field". Several interesting sculptures near City Hall (with copper dome) -
"Spirit of the Northwest" (three figures of Indian/Priest/Scholar); "Two Fur
Traders with Canoe". Lots of pubs and poolrooms serving "Brewskis" - sure is a
"working man's town". Green Bay Packer decor everywhere plus ""football helmet"
on street signs. We crossed the "Fox River" and camped at "Apple Tree"
campground near "De Pere" - very nice country farm but very "odoriferous"! Next day we decided not to circle Lake
Winnegago as still very cold and most things would be closed and turned south
along Lake Michigan towards Milwaukee. As we followed the water, we stopped in
"two Rivers/Home of the Ice Cream Sundae" and visited the historic "Berner's Ice
cream Parlour and Gift Shop" (established 1881). Continuing along "Maritime
Drive", we passed "Manitowoc" with its "Maritime Museum" explaining the
tradition of Wisconsin boat building in 1800s; Three big Budweiser Bottles at
Plant next to "Courthouse Pub" which is next to old "Courthouse" Buildings. Into
"Sheboygan" - next - many ornate old buildings but centre of city ripped up for
new roads (per usual throughout our trip); street signs have a "schooner" on
them; "Riverfront Drive" has a boardwalk and "shanty" shops; majestic "Blue
Harbour Resort and Conference Centre" on water; lots of old manufacturing
buildings with old signage still visible; some original brick streets. Heading
into the surrounding area is Wisconsin's premier golf destination. Nearby
"Sheboygan Falls" has more than fifty restored buildings from the 1800s, making
the city a "Great American Main Street." As we head to "West Bend" (with a
campground that is open), we're back on County Roads cutting through farmland -
now seeing blooming forsythia and daffodils plus the "Pheasant Ridge Wildlife
Sanctuary". We got a beautiful site overlooking Lake Lenwood and decided to walk
down to the beach before dark. After driving through the historic district in
"West Bend", we headed to Milwaukee, known as the "City of Cool" - has the
world's only "Harley-Davidson Museum" and bronze statue of "The Fonz" on city's
fifteen-block "River Walk"; nearby "Germantown" which has preserved its "old
world" heritage in the "Dheinsville Historic Park"; "Industrial and Economic
Corridor" (Jackie Robinson School, and many buildings boarded up, huge murals
"Stop the Violence"). We finally crossed the Milwaukee River into centre of the
city with many ornate old buildings - Twenty-three story :Pfister Hotel" (1893),
"Mitchell Building" with gold statue in entrance; huge one block "Frontier
Airline Centre"; "Usinger's Oldest Sausage Company"; etc., etc. Huge
city! Heading out, we stopped at the "Mitchell Park Dome". Three conical-shaped
glass domes house a tropical rain forest - "Tropical Dome" (1966); a desert
botanical garden - "Arid Dome" (1964); and a changing seasonal floral exhibit -
"Show Dome" (1964 - Currently Rocky Mountain Spring). The 1899 original
Conservatory was built in traditional glass house style. Heading out, we enter
huge farmland with several horse ranches and equestrian centre. We stopped at
"Happy Acres Kampground" where we were greeted by horses, two cats, burro,
ostrich, alpacas, ducks, geese, a pot-belly pig, and "who knows what else" as we
drove up the long laneway. We even saw stars in the night sky which I'm sure we
haven't seen since California! Today May 6 we are heading to Chicago, Illinois
(last time there was as we got off "Route 66" in 2007). We even saw a robin
pulling up worms and it's 65°
F (finally some heat). There are also farmers out tilling their
fields. What a beautiful spring day!! We took many side-roads to avoid
tolls passing through many ritzy suburbs (Highland Park, Wilmette, Evanston) and
finally got on "Lakeshore Drive" heading towards downtown "Chicago" - a very
beautiful but hectic city! There were people, bikes, cars, buses, cabs, couriers
everywhere! Not much parking so took pictures out the window. Never did find the
"Millennium Garages". We finally reached the corner of "Jackson and Lakeshore
Boulevards" at 3:30 P.M. (a little earlier than on Sunday, April 22, 2007,
following Route 66, which was 4:40 P.M.). We are now in familiar
territory - HA!HA! We crossed into "Indiana - Crossroads of America", heading
into "Chesterton" and the "Indiana Dunes National Lakeshore" where we camped in
2007. Upon arrival, we realized that the campground had been moved inland so we
won't be able to walk in the morning and hike over the dunes to Lake Michigan as
we did before. Oh well!! Still very nice and we had a bonfire with Canada Geese
honking overhead plus our traditional "train in distance like on Route 66!! Next morning, we drove to the "Dunes" and saw
Lake Michigan before proceeding through "Morgan City" and "Michigan City,
Indiana" where we visited "Mt. Buddy" - tallest dune along the lakeshore at 123
feet (rain on way and too steep for me and my "deteriorating hip", so didn't
climb to summit). As we went inland through lots of bush, we finally entered
farmland on Highway 2 to "South Bend, Indiana" which had lots of Spanish signs
and Mexican restaurants as we went to the "South Bend east KOA" in Granger,
Michigan, hoping to get TV reception for the "Kentucky Derby." Turned out the
hosts, a tall German couple had travelled a lot of "Route 66". They had an old
Classic GMC "Canyonland" motorhome (38 years old) and a yellow Mini Cooper car.
As they told us about the RV problems they've experienced on their travels over
the years, our misadventures looked like nothing!! There were great
facilities and an inside payphone. WOW!! - so I washed my hair, put on my new
black ball cap (complete with Kleenex flowers) and watched the race! (Heard
later that Bob watched it too). We decided to stay three nights to rest, catch
up on nots and tour the South Bend area. After staying at our site relaxing under the
tall pines on Sunday, we set out the next day to explore on a sunny and very
warm day - 74° F (in
short-sleeves)!! We first headed for "Bontragers Surplus Inc" (one of the
largest surplus supplies for RV supplies in the area) but ended up on a
really big detour as a bridge was out on one of the back roads. After
winding around for two hours, we finally found it, but nothing suitable for us!
We worked back to "Shipshewana, Indiana" - a huge Amish area and saw lots of
horses and buggies; laundry on lines; Amish ladies on bikes in long dresses and
caps; lots of Amish Furniture stores; quilts for sale in local homes and
fabulous Amish handicrafts. One large restaurant and bakery even did bus tours.
Not what we expected - business everywhere! We stopped in "Elkhart - The City
with Heart", a vibrant riverside community where the St. Joseph and Elkhart
Rivers merge with a new "Arts and Entertainment District" near the newly
renovated "Lerner Theatre" (1929); a "Riverwalk" and "Island Park" (in winter
there's an "Ice Park" and in summer it's a "Water Park" with splashing among the
geysers and gardens - very beautiful. Also had a huge outdoor art piece - a
bronze jazz player with a metal marching band with instruments behind him in
painted red, white and blue uniforms. As we left "Amish Country (Northern
Indiana is home to the second-largest population of Amish in U.S.A.), we
followed the St. Joseph River and crossed into "South Bend" on the "Memorial
Bridge". Passed a huge Heart and Vascular Centre at the "Memorial
Hospital" which also had a huge Spine and neuroscience Centre, "Baby
Hospital", etc!! Also saw the "Studebaker Mansion and Museum" in the "Near
Westside - South Bend's Oldest Neighbourhood"; and of course "Notre Dame
University" (1842) - entrance all tree-lined with huge gold-domed buildings at
the end. We found public parking and walked all the way down to visit the
"Basilica of the Sacred Heart" and see the plaque for "Brother André Bessette"
from Montreal (late 1800's). Next we drove by the "Legends Football Field" and
the "Knute Rockne Gate" at the "Stadium"'; "Holy Cross House:\ "Moreau
Seminary"; "Congregation of Notre Dame"; "St. Mary's College"; and even a golf
club - it's a huge campus! We got back to our campground at 6ish and I
later called Bob, Mom and Shirley since there's a payphone inside! We left our KOA "The Home of Hoosier
Hospitality" on Tuesday, May 10, and started wending our way north through
"Michigan" on our way back home to Canada. We toured "Kalamazoo" with its "Air
Zoo" - airplane display of WWII originals and restorations including the "Flying
Feline Foursome" also known as the "Wildcat, Hellcats, Tigercat, and Bearcat" on
display plus the pioneering "Wright Flyers". Lots of U.S.A. Flags and various
street flags along main streets (City of Kalamazoo, Central City, East City,
South Town, etc.). We headed out on Riverview Drive along the Kalamazoo River
and passed a cemetery "Mount Ever Rest". "Battle Creek" known as the "Cereal
City" has the "Ralston Food Co." as well as "Kellogg". There was a friendship
Park with "stoned" riverbanks downtown with sports murals and 3D plaques -
lovely. It is also home to the world's largest sculpture honoring the thousands
of southern slaves and fugitives who fled north during the 1840's and 50's. We
checked Woodall's for a campground as not many open here yet up here and got on
I-94 East heading towards Detroit, Michigan, for tomorrow's run home. As we got
off the interstate heading for the "Village of Grass Lake" and "Apple Creek C.G.
and R.V. Park" we saw a sign with great advice "Live Long, Laugh Often", and
there were several Canada Geese in nearby pond! The campground was sort of "Ma
and Pa" and they were still working on new bathhouse and pool so only washroom
was a long walk away in main house. Oh well!! We chose a site with moss and not
much as much mud, so Emma could have her daily stroll before dark - weather
permitting. Next morning, we made a quick stop in "Grass
Lake" for a picture of their "Stone Railroad Depot" building (1842) and park
with lovely blooming trees. We got back on I-94E with lots of traffic heading to
Detroit. After finding the "Bridge to Canada" exit and stopping at Duty Free and
Customs with no problems, we finally were back in Canada" on Wednesday, May 11,
2011 at 1:08 P.M. Since early and everyone in Wheatley, Ontario,
will still be at work, we took the long way back through "Amherstburg, Ontario"
along the "Detroit River" - lots of memories for sure! Eric stopped at Tim
Horton's for his first good coffee in months. As we followed Pigeon Bay
on Lake Erie through Colchester, we were on the "Wine Route" - never had that
before! We passed through Oxley and Kingsville heading to Leamington and there
was still lots of devastation and tree cutting from last year's tornado which
Eric hadn't seen yet. We arrived at "Rib's L'il Acres" at 4:40 P.M. and Dennis
made a nice supper and then I unloaded "gifts, etc." and did laundry as Shirley
worked till midnight. I, of course, surprised her when got home, and then we
surprised Dennis on his way to work at 8ish A.M. after Shirley and I were still
up watching the sun come up. Bad girl! We spent the next 12 nights in the Wheatley
area, visiting with Mom and family as well as several "old" friends in the
surrounding area. We were lucky to be in the area for birthday celebrations on
May 21 for Eric's relatives (Uncle Jake 93 in April, Aunt Margaret, his wife, 90
on May 1). We hadn't seen many of his relatives for years - quite a reunion!
(Since then, Uncle Jake had a heart bypass). We heard that Bob was back in the
hospital and not doing very well, so set off sooner than planned. After a
shorter visit with Reta and Bruce at their new summer campsite outside of
Kingston, Ontario, (along with Gwen and Larry who were visiting), we hurried
home with a short visit in Moncton, New Brunswick, to visit Al in the hospital.
We arrived in Cape Breton on Friday, May 27, 2011, at 4:52 P.M. We got to the hospital finally at 6:45 P.M. in
time to have a short visit with Bob as he was heading home by ambulance with
his family there and palliative care. I was glad to spend some time with him
before he passed away on Saturday, June 4, 2011 at 5:22 A.M. He was a very dear
friend for 43 years and a great travel companion!!